j.c.f.'s Athlon Overclock Phase
II
As it is with the Athlon running at 800MHz @ 1.6V at
idle (that's just no use, not sleeping, if it slept then there would be puddles shortly
followed by ice) the cold plate temperature is 10 degrees F over ambient room temperature,
if I plug in another two 8.2 ohm resistors taking the total load on the 5V rail down to
2.9 ohms for a 1.7A current the cold plate drops to 5 degrees over ambient room
temperature (actually less than the temperature around the case), close enough for me,
gaming it's the same 4 to 6 degrees warmer that the passive cooling system observed.
Unfortunately I can't show you much about strapping the
cache to 1/3 of the CPU clock, as you've no doubt noticed my camera is a representative of
the cheap and nasty bracket and is not even remotely capable of that kind of photography.
About all I can provide is a few hints on technique and the table of resistor
placement that I have gleaned from one site or another:
|
R103 |
R104 |
R106 |
R107 |
R110 |
R111 |
| 1/2 |
O |
X |
X |
O |
O |
X |
| 1/3 |
X |
O |
O |
X |
O |
X |
| 2/5 |
O |
X |
O |
X |
X |
O |
X indicates the resistor is present, O
absent, ie to get 1/3 you move the resistor from R104 to R103 and the resistor from R106
to R107.
As far as technique goes, the most off putting thing
about this whole affair, the right equipment turned what was an impossible task to a
relatively trivial one. First, get a magnifying lamp or a set of jewelers half eyes,
anything so that you can at least get an idea of what you are doing. Then get a long reach
fine tip for your soldering iron, that way you can lay the tip across both ends of a
resistor to remove it, apply solder to both ends and the resistor should come away with
the soldering iron, that or it's easy enough to scoop it up.
I found that to have an exacto blade in one hand (or
lying nearby) to remove the resistor from the tip of the soldering iron was a far superior
method to the "flick it off and try and find the resistor" approach.
For soldering the buggers back on I found a pair of locking tweezers to
be of great benefit, placing the resistor in the tweezers with one end protruding, after
placing a small blob of solder on that end and another on the pad on the CPU all that is
required is to hold the resistor in place and touch the soldering iron to the exposed end.
The crucial point is holding the tweezers in such a way as to be able to release them
quickly otherwise the torque of you manipulating the tweezers is going to be transferred
to that little itty bitty pad and it's more than likely gonna part company with the CPU.
Next page: The results
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